MEMBER’s FAQ’S
MEMBER’S FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
MEMBER SPECIFIC QUESTIONS ABOUT EVERYDAY ISSUES WHEN RUNNING A FLOAT CENTRE … FROM WATER QUALITY TO WRITTEN POLICIES
In 1954, John C. Lilly, M.D., invented the first float tank, which was simply an 8 foot cube filled with ocean water. Completely submerged, wearing a mask with oxygen, he used this prototypical tank to further his exploration of the limits of human consciousness.In the 1960’s, Dr.Lilly used ocean water in his tank before moved to using a supersaturated solution of Epsom Salts. This solution was found to be non irritating to the skin, while at the same time buoyant enough to keep the body naturally at the surface of the water. The horizontial float tank was invented eliminating the need to wear an oxygen mask. Soon ocean water was substituted with high concentration of Epsom Salts. By completely enclosing the water in a tank and maintaining the water at skin temperature, Dr. Lilly created a unique environment for meditation and scientific research.
A specific piece of research, that’s not well known, iprelates to the training rovided to the astronauts to prepare them for the 1st trip to the moon. Women and men were trained for this mission through Lily’s verticial tanks. Despite the women coping and performing better in the antigravity and isolated environment, men were selected for the mission.
He is the father of sensory deprivation tanks. He was a medical practitioner and a neuro-psychiatrist.
When studying psychoanalysis at the US National Institute of Mental Health (NIMH) in the 1950’s, John Lilly and his associate Dr. Jay Shurley M.D., were interested in the origins of conscious activity within the brain. They wondered if the brain needed external stimuli to stay in the conscious state. This sparked the first experiments with sensory deprivation. J.C.L. tested the absence of stimuli on the brain by creating an environment completely and peacefully isolated, the first isolation float tank was born. By 1970 the tanks evolved into horizontal using Epsom Salt solution, allowing participants to breath freely without the need for a mask.
Chlorine is often selected for its cost-effectiveness, rapid action, and strong oxidation properties, making it suitable for a wide range of applications, from residential pools to large-scale water treatment. hydrogen peroxide, (H2O2), would come in second, however hydrogen peroxide, doesn’t become a sanitiser until it chemically reacts with the Epsom salts. Bromine is also used although it has advantages in specific contexts like hot tubs or indoor pools, it’s one of the most irritating substances, especially for those with very sensitive skin, in a float tank and least effective. Additionally, bromine’s higher cost and slower action can make it less practical than chlorine.
In order to convert from one water sanitiser to another, you must start with a completely fresh body of water.
Research has shown that no pathogens survive in the salt solution (600kg Epsom Salts to 1,000 litres water) that would harm humans. The salt concentration has a significant impact on the chemistry of the solution making it difficult for pathogens to grown or even survive. The most sensitive time for the water is at the time of “fresh water top up”. Until the water being introduced is mixed with the saline solution it will not have undergone the necessary chemistry change to make it sanitary.
This doesn’t negate the additional sanitary features of your manufacturers i.e. UV lights or chemicals should not be used. These features will provide outcomes but not necessarily contribute to the issue of pathogens growing that would be harmful to humans.
Dumping water is necessary when it becomes contaminated, when water quality cannot be maintained through regular sanitisation, or when environmental conditions, such as stagnation or chemical imbalance, pose health risks i.e. vomit and fecal matter (poop). Regular monitoring and maintenance can help determine when it’s time to replace the water to ensure safety and optimal performance. Blood does not meet the need for dumping water, in this context it is a “cosmetic” issue not a health concern for the water. All spill of blood outside the water should be cleaned and sanitised to infectious control standards.
UV light is a highly effective and environmentally friendly tool for sanitisation, particularly when used in combination with other methods. It offers significant advantages in various applications, from water treatment to air and surface disinfection, by providing a powerful, chemical-free way to control harmful pathogens. It’s effectiveness is directly related to the wattage power of the UV light.
There are a variety of different filters available, each manufacturer determines the filter type their tank will use. They range from polyester with welded plastic top – disposables, reusable polyester and carbon filters. They range from 9 – 22 inches depending on the tank and model.
Be mindful if reusing filters they need to be maintained and cleaned regularly and well as they are more prone to bacteria and yeast infections.
There is no hard and fast rule on this. Some manufacturers advise weekly and others monthly. Really it comes down to how often are your tanks used. The water will be the telling point. You want your water to always look clean and clear. Also put your nose to the water surface and check that there is no musty or mildew smell. These are the two best points of measure if you are filtering if working well.
If your water smells i.e. musky, mildew, wet dog, dirty feet – this usually means the water is breaking down organic components i.e. sweat, skin cells, oil. This good news is that it can be managed with dosing with chloride or hydrogen peroxide. Both these chemicals neutralise organic compounds.
Your own nose if the best way to test for this. Place your nose to the water level and smell, if it smells like any of the above strongly you may have a bigger issue and there is something growing in your filter.
If the smell persists and is noticeable each time you walk in the room you may need to drain the tank of water, give it a spa treatment that you would use in a hot tub (purchase from a pool place) and flush the system. This will dissolve whatever is growing. Then you can refill your tank. It’s important to note that smells and associated bacteria growth are NOT harmful to humans… but no one will want to float in the water.
No, there isn’t. It’s important in all types of tanks to maintain the specific gravity at the correct level of Epsom Salts to ensure good water quality. This is most important. Following this, make sure to deal with scum marks on a daily basis and change filters regularly.
Scum lines are made up of the organic matter that is shed in the water when it is used i.e. dead skin, sweat, oils etc. Scum lines should be managed daily or twice weekly at the least. Keeping your tank clean means the filtering can work more efficiently and avoid any nasty grows.
The salt in the water crystalises if it is not moving. So when the tanks are offline i.e. for renovations you will notice that the salts starts to crystallise and solidify. This can be avoided if it is filtered for couple of hours a day. If this is not possible then plan for a longer restart of the tank when you need to it is likely to require at least 24 hours depending on the amount of water in the tank.
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